Since its inception over a decade ago 80’s Casual Classics has established itself as the undisputed number one retailer of 80’s heritage brands in the UK, they have also played a pivotal role in the re-launch of classic lines from the likes of Sergio Tacchini, Fila, Ellesse, Diadora and Lois. A great deal of store’s success is attributed to their passion for 1980’s fashion and the key role they have played in its revival. 80’s Casual Classics provided the wardrobe and support to director Nick Love during the making of his cult films The Business and The Firm, and lets face it, anyone (or any store for that matter) who can fulfil the needs of an 80’s aficionado like Nick Love can’t be a toby now can they? Sorry… I just came over all Bex from The Firm there for a moment! On a serious note I am a huge fan of the films and also Nick love, I am also a huge fan of 80scc and thanks to a mutual friend (big shout going out to Eddie Quinn) I have managed to catch up with founder Neil Primett (during his busy schedule) for an exclusive interview to talk casual clobber, the 1980’s and of course Nick Love.
So Neil Where did it all begin for 80s Casual Classics?
I guess looking back, age 9-10, a sport loving kid, going from everything being all about sport and having the best footy and athletics gear. I stand by the fact that Sports Casual would have happened without the terrace scene, a point came when sports trainers were a statement for mods, punks, smarter dressers and smoothies.
My own sports casual desire (with like-minded mates) to own best gear started 81-85, we eventually hit clubbing etc, and even the dress code for Fri/Sat night was not really casual. Later on my life changed back to music fashions, I took to managing and promoting a mates band so clothing for me linked greatly to the lifestyle as I’m sure it did for many with dressing scenes spawned from the Roses, Gallagher etc. In having a retro inspired store we had supplied a load of celebs born on vintage retro.
Next up -fast forward to our clothes store being offered heritage revival Fila and Sergio in 2006-07. The buzz of Sergio Tacchini backed by the casual dresers film “The Business” and a lot of eBay vintage increased demand. It was soon like the kid in the sweet shop and it was apparent that the interest fuelled like-minded types. Within weeks/months of noticing the appeal – coupled with brands being slow to identify the real immediate market being the revival consumer, we simply bought all available stocks and built significant business based on the older key consumer with a passion for all things 80s casual.
A year later brands like Diadora stepped up with comebacks on premium white/gold- Borg Elites – a key casuals trainer. I have a cautious background and business grounding coupled with a fear of failing, so I knew that 80scc could only be a huge success. We allowed consumer demand and enthusiasm to decide what level the market could stand, soon we made moves to buy all Diadora stocks and so on. By 2007-2008 we were taking our Ebay business over to a website, within 2 years our online specialist casuals business became a 4 store business taking up all my time and energies – today some brands trade heritage lines with us equivalent to 30+ stores!
It’s well documented that you have played a major role in the re-launch of vintage lines from heritage Brands, how did this come about?
After having such close contact with customers (as we had from day one) from direct customer visits to the Bedford store, phone calls, ebay chats and emails, l soon saw confidence in the demand and also what ages and sizes were not viewing a CASUAL/RETRO REVIVAL as fad (like a celebration of an incredible youth culture period). Having personally lived through the period (very much in the Home Counties) I was soon opened up to casual life in the North of England, Midlands, Sheffield, Leeds, Scotland etc.
Brands sadly have little direct contact with consumers and with retro they are either 2nd guessing demand or thinking they can just influence things, theory may work for certain progressive companies but retro is often about gaps, missing items and long lost favourites. Brands like Fila, Sergio, Ellesse were glad of our feedback given they were trying to establish a fresh brand whilst simultaneously building from heritage demand to re-establish their brand positions.
If brands would not take confidence to stock styles, colours, designs they were happy for 80scc to exclusively go alone and generate a buzz as long as we could solely sell a minimum of 300-600 pieces. In the world of retail that often works on shelf life of 3-6 months, many others were incapable of dealing with the concept of retro derived classics and had limited time stocking retro styles, leaving 80s as sole stockist destination.
We would invest in a year’s stock and try our utmost to maintain belief, at times customer belief/desire would go further than mine, having spent years in fashion stores; I would personally throw out a 2006 wardrobe for new 2007.. and so on. I sense many of our customers opted to collect, swap and sell on as they discovered fresh finds.
The interest in 80s clobber seems to be growing year on year, what is it about the 80s casual scene that still resonates with lads today?
As a company we do grow and I think for the individual passion then grows and with this those who care shout louder and spread the casual word. Our online community has grown with Facebook and Instagram both being incredible parts of our business that I am really proud of, and despite now having many staff we still see this as a key community (we have built) which keeps the whole scene alive, in essence an incredibly strong and customer grounded business. I’m not sure as to growth per head of person but in 12 years its clear there will always be an interest in owning heritage items. We have widened our offer to fulfil all wardrobe styles for mixing it up in a 2018-19 way. With my own progressive background, through retail and music I never wanted an 80s throwback business – just built on one of the most credible/memorable periods. Also I don’t ever want to create or suggest any dress code, we could sell straight, skinny or boot cut jeans as they all warrant their place with 80scc. Everyone is individual and there is no stereo type 80scc guy, I would like to think that no item worn has to be viewed as fad like!!
You provided the wardrobe for the Firm and The Business, what was it like working with Nick Love and the cast?
For me, I am first to admit to being full on and a one-off. Nick Love was at times incredibly funny and humorous with a strong element of “what you see IS what you get”, with 80scc it was attention to detail, being right, also not fucking about was also relevant and this kept me on my toes 100%. If anyone was to doubt your ability you try and go one better, so I totally get the competitive one-upmanship of casual; I soon sensed Nick knew how to drive and work with driven people. Pre the firm Nick rang me about some eBay items and soon The Firm became a considerable 80scc investment. At one point I had £8000 of original fila Terrinda Track Tops, Nick Loves desire to see Bex in full suit cost me £1100- I still own that suit today!
On site with Millwall and West Ham etc was superb, after helping to dress actors and extras I found I was soon at home in any environment in the world of clothing and it became my manor, and whilst often confused as Cockney I was soon in character and practicing my own lines for my shop scene! I did struggle keeping up with a few words from the likes of Paul Anderson, it was somewhat like being back on a building site in my late teenage years, with almost every sentence including a swear word!
I know this will probably be a tough question but what would be your ultimate 1980s casual rig-out?
I recall standing proud and my mum taking a photo of me in my Nike Wimbledon, Farah Slate Grey kecks, Kappa roll neck and Diamond Pringle Jumper. The extra layers were a suede/leather patchwork and a kappa Cagoule. Around my way this outfit was enough to be part of a fairly elite few. I worked really hard for this gear, not to mention the can of Hairspray for my Wedge haircut!
There are many people that believe Liverpool was the birthplace of the casual movement, as a southern geezer would you agree with this?
As a Liverpool supporter loving life through Euro trips I have some allegiance of my own to this world and can get how this could be the case. I also can’t dispute reasoning for the north to be first to get certain parts of scene, however I would have never give any nod to the North as the birthplace of the movement. I felt that we were cracking on at our own pace as Sports Casuals dressing scene.
Seeing Diadora, Farah, Lois, Nike etc, I’m sure all the subsequent releases were snatched up equally as fast in the South, the main distribution was in London – Fila/Diadora, (especially with Wham being all over new Fila gear as soon as it came out). Also did certain parts of the north ignore some brands that seem to have been discovered in the south? Some parts of UK have little allegiance to Diadora while others still have it as pinnacle casuals shoe. In the south for me Adidas fell behind Nike and Diadora for a number of years, I always respected Adidas in sport but it had not taken me into dressing like Nike and Diadora had.
I read a story from Oi Polloi Manchester of his trip down South and it sounded like me discovering Nike Wally Waffle trainers to look good in, not just for sports best, although with having little spare cash I still ran in mine!
There was some blinding music being made in the 1980’s, what were your big musical influences from that era?
I think most lads in our generation would soon cite the 90s as being better for music than 80s. I look back now with fondness and fun at the music of the time though, early clubbing Streetsounds Electro Records, Level 42, UB40, Wham, Chaka Khan, Shannon, The Smiths, Joy Division all an eclectic mix. When casual was kicking off to some extent anything went, I recall a lad’s holidays in the 80s –Wham tunes were really big. In the late 70s I had totally discovered Punk, a genre that connected with some passion, coming out of punk there was some new wave –The Jam/Style council which fell on the early side of casual. I used to like some decent underground sounds as well as the dance stuff from the clubs, for instance Chaka Khan sat in my music collection next to The Smiths! By the late 80s/early 90s with the Roses, Inspirals, Oasis and Blur it became so much more of a band/lad/gig scene, it was a period when I was a music promoter and manager and it was obvious people wanted to be part of it, they were also influenced and dressed by it. To me this was not just about 80s individuals, anyway one-upmanship amongst men was far more prevalent.
Are there anymore film projects in the pipeline?
I am always in contact with Nick Love who is promising another 80s TV Movie – so keep an eye out! We have also been trying to help a modern day Mod Casual film for launch in late 2019 called “Pebble and the Boy”. We have been contacted by a major US series set in 1983 who have already placed £5000 orders for wardrobe – sadly I’ve not been flown to LA to oversee that!! I am also looking at a follow up to the Casuals documentary with a fresh approach on how clothes trends happened across UK with stories from those not solely caught up in the Terrace Casual scene.
What does the future hold for 80s casual classics?
A long term plan would be to secure greater influence over heritage launches from Adidas and Nike and firm up as a No.1 Destination. It’s fairly obvious we have the greatest customer and social contributing customer that can aid demand towards future releases. Whilst we would also like some part in any limited releases, as a company we have a general view that there is a right demand level and a classic on 80scc will always be available whilst demand is always there. In 12-13 years of our core specialist existence many clothing and footwear styles have had repeat renewable business just like an Adidas Gazelle, a Lyle and Scott jumper or Lacoste Polo and we have proven that we are the best company to protect the longevity of old skool styles.
We would be happy to be involved in any heritage re-launch, there is already talk of more projects with the likes of Best Company, Chevignon and Marc O’Polo. Brands want business beyond simply heritage releases, on 80scc we have happily offered consultancy launches and partnerships to the larger companies releases if it aids getting our own specialist launch. As a company we prefer to play some part in a sensible marketing strategy, that is to involve the right customer for right heritage brand at the right level. I think it’s a case of WATCH THIS SPACE.